Climb the Eiger (3970m), Matterhorn (4478m) and Dent Blanche (4357m) in 2 weeks - Switzerland's most famous summits. A must for aspiring Alpinists who relish a big challenge. Prior technical climbing experience to UK Severe/USA 5.5 on rock and grade II/III in winter is required. The fortnight offers initial training routes in Arolla and instructional sessions to provide essential acclimatisation before tackling the main objectives.
.jpg "Matterhorn viewed from the Dent Blanche")
The schedule is more relaxed and flexible than on a one-week course, so you can learn more and enjoy a greater variety of climbing. We use the first week to work on skills and acclimatisation before climbing the Dent Blanche (2:1 ratio).
During the second week we offer maximum flexibility by guiding all 6 days on a 1:1 ratio with the aim of climbing the Matterhorn and the Eiger. We'll take you rock climbing to beautiful cliffs in the Valais region on any spare days.
One of our premier courses, so book early!
.jpg "Enjoying the exposure on the Matterhorn")
Typical itinerary:
Arrive Saturday afternoon
Day 1 (Sunday): Glacier Training Day on Ferpècle Glacier: Crampon skills, Ice Axe techniques, Ice Climbing, Ropework for Glaciers, Crevasse Rescue
Days 2-3: Multi-pitch rock climbing at Arolla, then walk to Tsa Hut (2607m); ascend Dent de Tsalion W Ridge and Aiguille de la Tsa (3668m) – a magnificent 600m grade 3 rock climb and scramble; stay in Bertol Hut (3310m)
Day 4-5: Traverse the Tête Blanche to the Dent Blanche hut and climb S Ridge of the Dent Blanche (4357m); return to Evolène
Day 6: Climb the Miroir d’Argentine – one of Switzerland’s finest rock routes, 13 pitches of immaculate limestone with routes from grade IV to VI
The middle Saturday is a rest day
Days 7-9: Drive to Zermatt, walk up to Hörnli Hut and ascend the Matterhorn by the Hörnli Ridge (1:1 guiding ratio)
Day 10-12: Drive to Grindelwald; ascend to Mittellegi Hut and traverse the Eiger by the Mittellegi and South Ridges (1:1 ratio); stay at Mönchsjoch Hut, climb Mönch; return to Evolène
Depart Saturday morning
The timing of the Matterhorn and Eiger ascents can be varied during the second week according to conditions.
If travelling by train from Geneva, we recommend buying a Swiss half tariff card to reduce lift expenses.
For information on accommodation and what's included in our Swiss Alpine Mountaineering Course prices click here.
