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~ Friday 21st August 2009

 With a bad forecast for Friday we decided on an early start for more leg bashing, climbing the Dent de Tsalion west ridge from the valley. You can approach this route from the Tsa hut, but it's "only" 2.5 hours from the car park in Arolla, so feasible in a day. 

The climbing is on good solid rock, AD with some bits of IV, all easily protectable with I was amazed to find a brand new bolt...then another! About a dozen in all, new bolts, placed in the last year. This is outrageous, a real backwards step placing bolts on a route first climbed in 1897. Worse, most of the bolts are very near good wire placements. I'm trying to find out "whodunnit", but can only think it is a local guide - presumably one too lazy/fat to make grade IV moves and place his own runners. 

Anyway, ranting aside, this is still a great climb. A quick (but not uneventful) descent via the Col de la Tsa saw us back in the valley for tea and cakes. 

Excellent exposed climbing

Big holes!